Pigmentation: a Complete Guide to Success
- May 6
- 2 min read
Pigmentation is a very common concern, but it is rarely talked about in depth. I created this guide so you will have a full understanding of how pigmentation develops, why it develops, how we can treat it, and even specific ingredients you can add into your daily routine.
Understanding Pigmentation
Pigmentation ALWAYS stems from inflammation.
This could be: sun exposure, a breakout, hormonal changes, physical trauma, heat, picking skin, etc.
The initial inflammation triggers Melanocyte Cells to produce too much Melanin.
Melanocytes
pigment producing cells
located in the basal layer of the epidermis (outermost section of skin)
everyone has them
Melanin
skin pigment produced by Melanocytes
This process is called Melanogenesis. It is our skin's way of protecting our DNA from damage.
A Deeper Look at Causes of Pigmentation
Sun - just minutes of unprotected exposure causes inflammation in the skin, leading to damage
Damage happens before we even feel red or burn
Sun damage will have sporadic distribution, freckles.
This appears prominently on the top of the forehead, bridge of the nose, shoulders, and cheekbones.
Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)
Stimulated by surface inflammation such as acne, physical trauma like picking your skin, bug bites, friction, significant heat, etc.
Presents exactly where the trauma took place
Hormonal Changes/Melasma "Pregnancy Mask"
Symmetrical patches of discoloration with a distinct line of where the pigment ends
UV/Sun exposure can trigger a Melasma flare up
Caused by pregnancy, lactation, hormonal birth control, PCOS, hormone replacement therapy, or thyroid issues
Now that we know how pigmentation happens and why, lets talk about how we can treat it...
Ingredients to look for
Mandelic Acid
Suppresses Melanogenesis
Anti-inflammatory
Gently Exfoliates
Lactic Acid
Reduces discoloration
Gently exfoliates
Hydrating
Stimulates Collagen production
Glycolic Acid
Slightly more aggressive exfoliation
Disrupts bacteria cells to prevent acne
Breaks down dead skin cells easily
Vitamin A (Retinoids)
Also known as retinol, retinal, tretinoin, retin-a, etc.
Accessible over the counter and as prescriptions
Reduces discoloration
Increases cell turnover to promote fresh, new skin
Stimulates collagen and elastin production
Tranexamic Acid (TXA)
Anti-inflammatory
Inhibits "Matrix Metalloproteinase Production/MMP" (these enzymes break down collagen and elastin
Inhibits Melanogenesis
Reduces discoloration
Hexylresourcinol
Powerful antioxidant (protects against damage)
Inhibits Melanogenesis
Reduces cellular oxidation
Inhibits yellowing of the skin (caused by everyday damage)
Reduces brown spots
Niacinamide
Increases cell turnover
Decreases red spots
Potent antioxidant
Inhibits multiple pathways of cellular damage
Vitamin C
Powerful antioxidant
Inhibits Melanogenesis
Increases efficacy of your sunscreen
Anti-inflammatory
SUNSCREEN!!!!
Prevents sun damage
Protects against UV radiation from the sun
THE MOST IMPORTANT PART
**IMPORTANT NOTE - Do not add all of these ingredients to your routine at once, consult a professional about what would work best for you!
Treatments for Pigmentation Concerns
Every type of pigmentation is different and needs to be treated differently.
I like to work my clients up, starting with gentle treatments, to chemical peels.
Always consult a professional to get a customized treatment plan. Click the button below to book a consultation with me if you are in the St. Charles MO area and let's start your journey! Your confidence awaits.
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